Kurseong

Kurseong – The Pause Between Two World

A COVID-Era Road Trip from Kolkata to the Hills

It was mid-2020 — the kind of time when every journey came with a thermometer, a double mask, and a long list of government regulations. Yet, after months of being locked indoors, we decided to move. Not just metaphorically, but physically.
A plan was made: a road trip from Kolkata to the hills — the lungs we needed.

Our small crew packed up with sanitizer bottles, extra snacks, and a playlist that became the soundtrack of our escape. The route? Kolkata → Siliguri → Kurseong. Later we would go on to Kalimpong, but Kurseong was our first real stop in the hills.

The roads were emptier than usual. Petrol pumps had tired eyes. We had to show e-passes at checkpoints. But the excitement? Fully alive.

Reaching Kurseong: A Breath of Fog and Tea

Kurseong isn’t loud. That’s the best part.
As we drove uphill from Siliguri, the sharp bends of the hill road were flanked by green tea bushes on both sides. The air slowly changed — cooler, moister, quieter. The toy train tracks ran beside us like a memory from another century.

We reached our little homestay on the edge of town. Masked hosts. Thermal checks. The new normal. But as soon as we stepped out to the balcony, and looked down into the cloud-soaked valley, we knew — this was worth everything.

Kurseong in COVID Times: Calm, Caution & Mist

Traveling during the pandemic taught us many things — patience, gratitude, and the art of slowing down. Kurseong matched that mood perfectly.

There were few tourists. Some local shops were closed. Every time we entered a café or building, hands were sanitized, details written down, masks adjusted. But in exchange, we got empty view-points, quiet forest trails, and a kind of stillness that the pre-COVID world never offered.

Dow Hill looked like a foggy fairytale. We heard birds instead of honks. We found hidden paths where old colonial bungalows whispered stories in silence. There was a kind of healing in just walking, breathing, listening.

Places to Visit in Kurseong

Eagle’s Crag – Perched at one of the highest points in Kurseong, Eagle’s Crag offers uninterrupted panoramic views of the Kanchenjunga range, especially on clear mornings. It’s not crowded like Tiger Hill in Darjeeling — here, it’s just you, the wind, the mountains, and the slow rise of the sun.
There’s a watchtower and a small park nearby, and the trail leading up is just as peaceful as the view itself.

Dow Hill Forest & Eco Park – If Kurseong has a personality, it lives in Dow Hill. A thick forest of pine and oak trees, it wraps around you in mystery. Locals speak of ghost stories and eerie sightings, particularly near Victoria Boys’ School and the haunted road through the woods — and honestly, walking here during the misty hours does feel like stepping into a gothic novel.
The Eco Park within the forest is a great spot for a relaxed stroll or picnic — a well-kept green patch amid the old-world charm.

St. Mary’s Hill – A beautiful winding trail takes you to this lesser-known part of Kurseong — St. Mary’s Hill is home to tranquil surroundings, old colonial cottages, a Christian monastery, and orchid-lined paths.
Perfect for photography, solitude, or reflective walks. The views into the surrounding valleys are gentle and wide, offering a soft contrast to the dense forest of Dow Hill.

Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Museum – For history lovers, this is a must. Located at Giddapahar, this small museum is set in the house where Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose was once interned by the British.
The rooms are preserved with original furniture, letters, photographs, and documents that tell the story of Bose’s life and time here. A powerful reminder of history in an otherwise sleepy hill town.

Tea Gardens – You can’t visit Kurseong without immersing yourself in its tea culture. Several estates surround the town — Castleton, Makaibari, Ambootia, to name a few. Unlike the commercial tours in Darjeeling, many of these allow you to simply walk through the gardens, interact with local workers, and taste freshly brewed second flush tea right where it’s grown.
Golden light over tea bushes, the rustling of leaves, and the distant hoot of the toy train — this is Kurseong magic.

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Food in Kurseong

Nepali Thali – A hearty meal of rice, lentils, curry, pickles, and seasonal greens — served hot at local eateries. It’s comfort food after a long walk or chilly day.

Momos & Thukpa – Steamed, stuffed, and served with fiery chutney — the momos here are lighter and more flavorful than what you’ll find in city versions. Pair them with a bowl of Thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) on a foggy evening — pure bliss.

Local Bakeries – Kurseong’s bakeries are hidden gems. They serve up soft cakes, buns, fruit tarts, and cookies — best enjoyed with a steaming cup of fresh hill tea. One such place is Margaret’s Deck — part tea lounge, part café, and fully Instagram-worthy.

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Things to Do in Kurseong

Nature Walks & Birdwatching – The biodiversity here is rich. If you’re up early, sunbirds, warblers, owls, and flycatchers serenade you from tree canopies. The best walks are around Dow Hill, St. Mary’s Hill, and the outskirts of the town near the tea estates.
Bring a good pair of shoes and just start walking — the hills will guide you.

Orchid Trails – Kurseong is called the “Land of White Orchids” — and with good reason. Visit local nurseries or even gardens of homestays to see these delicate alpine blooms. Spring (March–May) is the best time, but some orchids can be spotted even during autumn.

Explore Local Monasteries – Quiet, simple, and full of mountain serenity, monasteries in Kurseong like the Sherpa Monastery and Tiffin Dara Gompa are places to just sit, breathe, and maybe even meditate. The chants echo through the hills in the morning — a powerful moment of connection.

Stroll the Town Bazaar – Kurseong’s bazaar is a mix of the old and the new — handwoven scarves, tea packets, prayer flags, fresh vegetables, and the smell of steaming momos drifting from corner stalls. It’s small enough to explore in an hour, but you’ll likely linger longer.

Visit Colonial Schools & Libraries – Don’t miss walking by Dow Hill School and the Dow Hill Library — founded during the British era, these institutions have an eerie charm, with stone walls, wooden staircases, and forested campuses that seem untouched by time.

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Recommended Hotels

Budget Homestays & Guesthouses

Simple, clean, and family-run — most of these places offer local food, basic rooms, and warm hospitality. Great if you’re traveling on a budget or prefer authentic local stays.

Mid‑Range Hotel

Expect comfortable rooms, hill views, attached baths, and possibly Wi-Fi. These are usually closer to the town center, making logistics easier.

Heritage Bungalows & Boutique Retreats

If you want to treat yourself, consider one of Kurseong’s heritage stays — think colonial-era bungalows with large verandas, fireplaces, curated meals, and birdsong as your morning alarm. These are tucked away from the town, surrounded by forests or tea estates.

1. Cochrane Place Hotel: A charming heritage hotel with stunning views.
2. Summit Hermon Hotel & Spa: Mid-range with good amenities.
3. Makaibari Tea Estate Homestay: Authentic experience amidst tea gardens.
4. The Amarjeet Hotel: Budget-friendly with clean accommodations.

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How to Reach Kurseong

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Suggested 3-Day Itinerary

Day	Activities
Day 1	Arrive via Siliguri/NJP. Check in at homestay. Explore Kurseong bazaar. Sunset view at Eagle’s Crag. Local dinner.
Day 2	Visit tea garden in morning. Dow Hill walk + Eco Park picnic. Afternoon visit to Netaji Museum. Evening tea at a bakery or garden café.
Day 3	Morning monastery visit. Short orchid trail or forest walk. Local lunch. Depart towards Kalimpong or Siliguri.

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Budget Guide (Per Person Estimate)

Category	Estimated Cost
Travel (Round-trip from Siliguri/NJP)	INR 500 – INR 1,500
Stay (per night)	INR 1,000 – INR 4,000 (budget to boutique)
Food (per day)	INR 300 – INR 800
Sightseeing / Activities	Mostly free or minimal entry fees

Travel Tips

• Pack light layers — mornings/evenings are chilly even in summer.
• Best months: March to May (orchids and spring air), October to November (clear skies, post-monsoon freshness).
• Avoid July to September — heavy rainfall and possible landslides.
• Carry offline maps — phone networks may drop in forest areas.
• Support local businesses and homestays — it keeps the town charming and authentic.
• Respect wildlife and forest rules in Dow Hill and surrounding areas.

Kurseong doesn’t try to impress. It doesn’t need to. It invites you — to slow down, to listen, to wander without a plan. It’s a town made of misty silences, warm teas, old books, and quiet forests.

I came here during a pandemic, chasing escape. But I found something else — stillness, softness, and a deep sense of presence. And that, sometimes, is exactly the kind of travel that heals.